Itinerary of A Happy Tummy: A Food and Travel Guide of Cebu City

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I realized that a majority don’t travel primarily for food like I do. Their itineraries are filled with the usual tourist spots and that’s perfectly fine. While some of them want to experience true local cuisine, they miss out on it due to loaded schedules and lack of planning. Then they end up with mediocre food or Western food chains (nothing wrong with the latter as I love trying them abroad, but you’ll miss out a lot if this is all what you eat).

I want YOU to avoid this trend, save your stomach space from useless calories, and be “food wise” in your travels. After all, this is what my blog is all about. So I launched a series called Itinerary of A Happy Tummy. It’s a collection of travel guides that includes tourist sites to visit and food experiences to try.

So what can you expect from this guide? First, I’ll list down the food experiences that you can include in your itinerary. Second, I’ll list down the areas (with its attractions, museums, and/or shopping spots) that you can visit and add where the nearest recommended food spots are. Third, I’ll come up with a sample itinerary. Lastly, I’ll give you tips to maximize your food-wise travel.

But what can you NOT expect from this guide? I’ll exclude accommodations, transportation, visas (if applicable), and whatever else is not included above. Let’s manage expectations ;)

The first 2 guides are on Singapore and Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia). Now, I will go local and write on Cebu City, my favorite food destination in the Philippines. (Warning: This is a long article!)

Cebu City is the capital of Cebu province, which is located in Central Visayas, the country’s central region. Founded in 1565, it is the oldest city in the country. It is also a developing city (it feels like I’m in Quezon City), with a lot of vertical construction going on. Because of its economic progress, the city is accepted as the Queen City of the South. Still, it has retained its old charm, with many heritage sites found across the city.

Food Experiences to Try

Instead of dishes to try, I’ll list down food experiences instead. You will get to sample different dishes in some experiences anyway (but I will single out dishes that made an impression on me). I will also list down the places where to have these experiences. Take note that I normally include experiences and spots that I have tried and haven’t tried; I’m trusting the local and international food b/vloggers’ recommendations as well as those of Sunstar.ph Best of Cebu, which is like Cebu’s Michelin Guide. But for this guide, I’m listing all food experience and spots that I tried.

Here are the food experiences you can try (click the links for related articles and sites):

Barbecue. In Cebu, there are lots of restaurants and roadside stalls dedicated to grilled meat and seafood. Granted, there are also lots of roadside barbecue stalls in Manila. But people usually just drop by for a snack. Cebuanos, on the other hand, come to have a meal, pairing their barbecue with rice or puso (hanging rice). I think it’s safe to say that the Cebuanos love all things barbecue or inihaw/sinugba (grilled)! My favorite barbecue spots are AA BBQ, a popular chain, and Matias.

If available in the barbecue spot, don’t forget to try Chorizo de Cebu, Cebu’s longganisa (Filipino sausage), which is bite-sized, grilled, and on the sweet side. They’re nicely sweet and smoky.

Do you want to know how much the Cebuanos love their barbecue? They even have a barbecue complex that’s open 24 hours! (Check out my Cebu barbecue experience here.)

Casa Verde. Literally “green house” (because it’s original branch is located inside a house that’s colored green), Casa Verde is a family-owned casual restaurant serving American food. The restaurant is known for their XL-sized items such as The Mighty Ton, a 12-inch burger with a kilo of beef patty that can easily feed a group, and Milky Way, the “biggest milkshake in town.” But their bestseller is Brian’s Ribs, which is baked pork ribs smothered with a sweet and tangy piquet sauce. (Check out the international cuisines I tried in the city here.)

Cebu Lechon. If I have a foreign friends visiting the country and they can only eat one Filipino food, without hesitation I will tell them to eat Lechon, the country’s take on roast suckling pig (many Spanish-speaking countries also use the same name). Cebu lechon, which falls under the Visayan (central region) kind, is stuffed with a ton of ingredients, with garlic and tanglad (lemongrass) as the most common. Cebuanos claim that their lechon is malasa (flavorful) and doesn’t really need a dip. Just be aware that some can be maalat or salty. To balance this out, a vinegar dip comes to the rescue.

It is believed that Cebu is the origin of lechon, as Spanish colonizers first entered through the island and passed down the recipe. However, historical documents reveal that the natives were already roasting entire pigs even before the Spaniards came. It was only the colonizers who gave the pork dish its name. Nowadays, lechon sellers abound in the island, including the capital and the neighboring cities of Carcar and Talisay. (Check out my Cebu lechon crawl here.)

La Vie Parisienne. Literally “the Parisian life,” La Vie Parisienne makes you feel you’re in the City of Lights while in the Queen City of the South, perfect for your Instagram fix. It’s a French bakery, deli, and wine cellar combined. They’re known for their Croissant and other French pastries like Macarons. (Check out the international cuisines I tried in the city here.)

The Instagrammable interiors of La Vie Parienne (left) and its French pastries (right)

Ngohiong. This is a popular street food in Cebu and a distant relative of the spring roll. It’s made with a mix of meat, singkamas (jicama), ubod (bamboo shoot), and, most importantly, Chinese five-spice, all wrapped in a battered rice paper. It comes with a sweet and sour dip, also flavored with Chinese five-spice. Since it’s very affordable, students and office workers eat ngohiong for a meal, pairing it with puso. Many Cebuanos even consider ngohiong to be their comfort food. I tried it at Doming’s Ngohiong, but you can have it in these places as well.

Pochero. This dish is Cebu’s answer to Bulalo, a bone-in beef shank soup that’s popular in the entire archipelago, especially in the Southern Tagalog region. This is not to be confused with the other pochero dish, which is a meat stew made sweet with banana, tomatoes, and…drumroll…pork and beans! Honestly, I don’t see any difference between Cebuano pochero and bulalo. One of the popular places for pochero in Cebu is Kusina Uno.

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Pungko-Pungko and Ginabot. This is my one of my favorite food experiences in Cebu. In Cebuano language, “pungko,” means to crouch or squat. Pungko-Pungko are actually food stalls offering deep-fried goodies, where patrons sit on low benches. The best place to have this experience is at Pungko-Pungko sa Fuente, which is a collective of several pungko-pungko “stalls”, each seating 6 people in my estimation.

To order, you just tell the vendor which items you like. Choose from items like alimasag (small crab), liempo (pork belly), and Ginabot, which is Cebu’s version of chicharong bulaklak or deep-fried pig mesentery. Then the vendor will chop them and serve to you on a plate. Eat with your hands, dip the fried goodies in vinegar with chopped white onions and chillies, chase it with puso, and drink Mountain Dew! Yum!

A Plate of Pungko-Pungko Awesomeness! — A Plate of *Pungko-Pungko* Awesomeness!

Puso. A staple in Cebuano meals, Puso (poo-SO) is rice wrapped in coconut leaves and shaped into a triangle or, more accurately, a diamond. Also referred to as “hanging rice”, you will see this distinctly Cebuano delicacy in barbecue, lechon, and pungko-pungko spots. It’s the Cebuano version of Ketupat, the Malay compact rice that is popularly paired with satay or sate (skewered meat).

Seafood. Since Cebu City is beside the sea, there is an abundance of seafood there. So don’t miss out on the city’s amazing seafood dishes. You can try:
- Linarang. Also called Nilarang, this dish is a fish stew that is truly Central Visayan. While ingredients vary per recipe, the basic ones are chillies, coconut milk, garlic, ginger, onion, tomatoes, a sour fruit as souring agent, and tausi (fermented black beans). The best place to get your linarang fix is at an unassuming eatery named Larangan sa Pasil. (Pasil is an area in Cebu where there is a fish port and a market. So you know that the fish is super fresh!) Check out my linarang experience here.
- SuTuKil. Also shortened as STK, SuTuKil refers to any fish cooked in 3 ways: Sugba (grilled), Tula or Tuwa (stew), and Kilaw (ceviched). It’s a common way of preparing fish in Central Visayas. SuTuKil places are abundant in the island of Cebu, and it is said that the best ones are found in Mactan Island. But in Cebu City, one of the best spots is STK ta Bay! at Paolito’s Seafood House. (Check out my SuTuKil experience here.)

Linarang at Larangan sa Pasil. Can you guess what fish was used in this bowl? — *Linarang* at Larangan sa Pasil. Can you guess what fish was used in this bowl?

Siomai sa Tisa. This is not the fancy siomai or shumai (pork and shrimp dumpling) that you’ll find in dim sum restaurants. Rather, it’s a Filipino adaptation of the Cantonese treat. You’ll find it sold in food carts across the country. It’s very cheap (ranging from P20-P50 for 4-5 pcs.) and is widely eaten, as a rice meal, by commuters, students, and everyone else on budget. In Cebu City, Barangay Tisa is known for siomai. Stalls are lined up in the streets selling this favorite snack. Sold at P7, it’s usually eaten with rice or puso.

Sugbo Mercado. If Manila has Mercato Centrale, then Cebu has Sugbo Mercado! Literally “Cebu Market”, Sugbo Mercado is a weekly night market located in Cebu I.T. Park, a mixed-use development that has become the city’s primary commercial and lifestyle hub. The night market is home to a lot of food and retail stalls and has become a venue for entertainment and events. It’s also recognized as the “Best Food Market” by SunStar Best of Cebu.

With stalls offering a wide range of local and international cuisines, any true foodie visiting Cebu can’t miss out on Sugbo Mercado! (Check out my Sugbo Mercado experience here.)

Tuslob Buwa. Literally “to dip (tuslob) in bubble (buwa, which sounds like the Tagalog bula),” this Cebuano street food is made with pig brains gravy and eaten with a puso. While this originated at the Pasil area, the best place to have this dish, awarded with Best of Cebu, is at Azul. They serve traditional and modern versions of the dish.

Areas to Visit

I’m listing down areas instead of individual activities, attractions, museums, and shopping spots because I want you to maximize your visit at a particular area and help you save time and fare. Convinced?

However, I will still list down highly-rated and/or personally-recommended activities to do per area or near the area. So pick that areas that you want to visit, the activities you want to do there, and the food experience/s you want to try there as well.

Downtown

The downtown area is home to many “oldests” of not just Cebu City but the entire country (the city is the oldest in the country anyway). These include the oldest fort, churches, and street. Below is what you can see in the downtown. Take note that I’m separating the Parian district, which is home to many historical sites as well.

Carbon Market: Located in what used to be a coal depository, Carbon Market is the city’s oldest and largest public market. Here, you can buy fresh produce, seafood, and even souvenirs.
Colon Street: The oldest street in the Philippines, Colon Street used to be the main commercial district of the city. Today, it’s still a busy district lined with establishments.
Fort San Pedro: Located in Plaza Independencia, Fort San Pedro is the country’s oldest and smallest fort (I walked around it’s triangular layout in just 5 minutes or even less!). It was built by the Spaniards under the conquistador Miguel Lopez de Legazpi. It was initially made with wood. But to defend from Muslim raiders, it was upgraded with stones.

Krus ni Magellan (Magellan’s Cross): Arguably the most popular of all landmarks in the city, Magellan’s Cross was planted by the Portuguese explorer Ferdinand Magellan to signify the beginning of Roman Catholicism in the country. It is said that the current cross isn’t the original one but is only a covering for the original. Some, however, contend that it’s just a replica replaced in 1565, as the original one was either removed or destroyed.

Taboan Public Market: Cebu is known for Danggit, a small butterflied, sun-dried, salted rabbitfish that’s typically eaten for breakfast. It’s a popular pasalubong (souvenir) and you can buy it at Taboan Public Market, where stall after stall are selling this Cebuano delicacy. Just be prepared for the smell. It might even stick to your clothes!

Danggit at Taboan Public Market — *Danggit* at Taboan Public Market

Recommended Food Spots: Doming’s Ngohiong, Larangan sa Pasil

City Proper Outskirts (specifically along Cebu Transcentral Highway)

Just outside the city proper are popular tourist sites that can be visited in just half a day if you’re driving or renting a vehicle. Here’s what you can see:

Cebu Taoist Temple: This is still within the city proper but I placed it here because it can be visited enroute to or from the other places in this category. The Cebu Taoist Temple is a feast for the eyes because of its colorful architecture. It is open to worshippers and non-worshippers alike. As this is a place of worship, kindly observe proper etiquette.
Sirao Flower Garden: This is a popular garden in Brgy. Sirao, overlooking mountain ranges. It was once went viral over social media because of its Instagrammable sceneries. But I’ll be honest that I find it underwhelming.

Temple of Leah: Considered the Taj Mahal of Cebu, this massive “temple” is built by Teodorico Adarna in memory of his late wife, Leah Villa Albino-Adarna. The structure has an ancient Roman-style architecture. This is a perfect place for couples!

Tops Lookout: If you want a panoramic view of the city, then this is the place to be. There are also bars around, which is perfect for an evening hangout with the gang.

Recommended Food Spots: La Vie in the Sky (at Tops Lookout), La Vie Parisienne (this is on the way to Cebu Transcentral Highway)

Fuente

Fuente is the heart of the city’s uptown area, made distinct by its rotunda park. There’s little to see in this area but I’m including it because of the plethora of food spots. Here’s what you can see:

Fuente Osmeña Circle: This is the rotunda park that I mentioned earlier. In the middle is the Fuente Osmeña or Osmeña Fountain. It is named after Sergio Osmeña, the Philippine president who hailed from Cebu.
Sky Experience Adventure: If you’re looking for an adventure within the city and not afraid of heights, then this is the activity for you. In Sky Experience Adventure, you can do the Edge Coaster, which is a seated ride where you will go around the edge of a building 130 meters above ground! Or the Sky Walk Extreme where you will walk around the building on translucent floor at 126 meters (At least it’s 4 meters lower than Edge Coaster. LOL!). Aside from these 2 attractions, there are plenty of activities to do here.

Recommended Food Spots: AA BBQ Ramos Branch, Casa Verde Main Branch, Larsian (for 24/7 barbecue), Pungko-Pungko sa Fuente, Zubuchon One Mango Branch (for lechon)

Parian

The Parian (or Pari-an) are districts where the Spanish authorities designate the Chinese. Today, Cebu’s Parian is home to a lot of heritage landmarks:

Casa Gorordo Museum: This showcases the lifestyle of the Gorordo family and the Cebuano culture. It used to be the home of Isidro Gorordo and four generations of his family lived there, including Juan Gorordo, the first Filipino bishop of Cebu. It’s also housed in a balay nga tisa (house with tiled roof), with an architecture that mixes Chinese, Spanish, and native influences. (Check my article on Casa Gorordo Museum here.)

Museo de Parian or 1730 Jesuit House: As its name suggests, this used to house Jesuit priests and deacons. This museum tells the rich history of the house (which served a lot of functions through the years), as well as of Cebu’s.
Museo Sugbo (technically outside the Parian): If you want to learn the history of Cebu, then head to Museo Sugbo (literally Cebu Museum) or the Cebu Provincial Museum. It has 12 galleries showcasing the province’s history back to pre-colonial era to World War II times. It’s building also has an interesting history behind it.

The Heritage of Cebu Monument: Compared to other landmarks in the Parian, this one is fairly new. The Heritage of Cebu Monument is a massive sculpture depicting historical sites and events such as the baptism of Rajah Humabon, the island’s “king” when the Magellan arrived, and the Battle of Mactan. It also features notable Cebuanos such as Former President Sergio Osmeña and St. Pedro Calungsod. The sculptures were made by national artist Eduardo Castrillo and various media were used, namely brass, bronze, concrete, and steel. The project was started in July 1997 and inaugurated in December 2000.

Yap-Sandiego Ancestral House: This ancestral house is another heritage house-turned-museum in the Parian district. Built in the late 17th century, it is originally owned by the couple Don Juan Yap and Doña Maria Florido. Their eldest daughter, Maria, married the Parian’s Cabeza de Barangay (head of barangay, the smallest government unit in the country) Don Mariano Sandiego. It’s where the house got the name. Today, the house is being managed by a 10th generation descendant.

The house is said to be the first Chinese house outside China. Its floors are made with Molave wood, the roof with terracotta from China, and walls with coral stones. That’s why the locals refer to the house as the “balay nga bato ug kahoy”, which literally means “house of stone and wood”.

Recommended Food Spots: I wasn’t able to explore the food scene in this area. So you can either explore it yourself (lines or crowds are good signs) or move to nearby areas.

Note: I wrote about my history tour of Cebu, in which I featured most of the spots above. Check it out here.

Other Areas and Attractions/Activities

Majority of travellers go to the province of Cebu for its white sand beaches and clear waters, and spend just a day in the city. This is understandable, as the province has some of the best beaches in the world. So let me list down the places you can visit or activities you can do outside the city.

10000 Roses Café & More at Cordova: Located in the nearby Mactan Island, this café features 10,000 LED-powered roses, making it a Instagrammable spot. If you come in the evening, the artificial roses will be lit.

Bantayan, Moalboal, and Oslob: These are municipalities that are homes to white sand beaches. I just wouldn’t recommend the whale shark watching at Oslob because of its bad practice of feeding the marine giants.
Carcar City: If you’re heading to the beaches at south Cebu, I would highly recommend a stop here. Carcar City is known for its lechon, which is the best I have ever tasted. Stop by for lunch (or breakfast or dinner); just don’t miss out on this! (Check out my lechon experience here.)

Kawasan Falls at Badian: If you’re into canyoneering, cliff diving, and waterfalls, then this is the place to be. It’s a 3-hour drive from the city. Many travel agencies offer day tours for this activity.
Mactan: You don’t have to travel far from the city to have your dose of Vitamin Sea. Just drive your way to Mactan where there plenty of white sand beaches and five-star beach resorts.

Sample Itinerary

Before I show you my sample itinerary, here are few things to take note of:

The sample itinerary is for a trip of 4 days and 3 nights. For me, this is the minimum length for a trip to be enjoyable. If your trip is longer, then just fill in the additional days.
I included the areas, attractions, and food experiences that you should visit/do for a first-time visit.
Because we all desire to maximize any trip, I assumed that you’re arriving at Cebu City in the morning and leaving in the evening.
I didn’t consider the operating days and times of the attractions and food spots listed in the itinerary. So please do some research and take note of them. Adjust as needed. You don’t want to end up with the attraction or food spot closed.
In the end of the day, it’s your time, money, and trip. So feel free to change anything in the itinerary. If you want to splurge for an activity or food experience, go for it. If you want to sleep in or take a nap in the middle of the day, go for it. Enjoy your trip in the way you want to!

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Tips

Finally, let me give you some tips to maximize your explorations and foodventures:

It’s best to start the day at 8AM with a breakfast to further maximize the day. I’m a big believer in breakfast. I have 2 reasons: First, it’s always good to load some energy for the whole day. Some activities can be strenuous, like climbing up hundreds of steps, doing a day hike in the city’s trails, or just walking kilometers within the city. Second, there’s always the tendency to skip lunch or have no food for a long period of time if the day gets too busy or an itinerary stop takes longer than expected.
I have given you a good amount of resource to plan for your exploration and foodventures. But if you still end up in a place where you’re unsure where to eat, try a trusted technique: Look for a place with a lot of customers or where there is a queue. There’s a high chance that those places serve good food.
Leave some room for spontaneity. Sometimes, the best experiences happen when we least planned it. But don’t leave too much room lest you end up wasting resources.

Did you find this guide helpful? Is there anything I need to add? Comment them below!

Don’t forget to check my other Itinerary of A Happy Tummy: Kuala Lumpur | Singapore

And also my Cebu (Food) Trip articles: Trying the Local Dishes of the Queen City of the South | The Search for the Best Cebu Lechon | The Ultimate Seafood Experience Part 1 (SuTuKil and Paluto All-You-Can) | The Ultimate Seafood Experience Part 2 (Linarang and Bakasi) | Sharing in the Cebuanos’ Love for Barbecue | The Night (Market) Crawler Goes to Sugbo Mercado | The International Flavors of Cebu City | Zoy’s Top 5: Cebu City Food | A History Tour of Cebu City | Musing in Museums: Casa Gorordo Museum