Itinerary of A Happy Tummy: A Food and Travel Guide of Kuala Lumpur (Malaysia)

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I realized that a majority don’t travel primarily for food like I do. Their itineraries are filled with the usual tourist spots and that’s perfectly fine. While some of them want to experience true local cuisine, they miss out on it due to loaded schedules and lack of planning. Then they end up with mediocre food or Western food chains (nothing wrong with the latter as I love trying them abroad, but you’ll miss out a lot if this is all what you eat).

I want YOU to avoid this trend, save your stomach space from useless calories, and be “food wise” in your travels. After all, this is what my blog is all about. So I launched a series called Itinerary of A Happy Tummy. It’s a collection of travel guides that includes tourist sites to visit and food experiences to try.

So what can you expect from this guide? First, I’ll list down the food experiences that you can include in your itinerary. Second, I’ll list down the areas (with its attractions, museums, and/or shopping spots) that you can visit and add where the nearest recommended food spots are. Third, I’ll come up with a sample itinerary. Lastly, I’ll give you tips to maximize your food-wise travel.

But what can you NOT expect from this guide? I’ll exclude accommodations, transportation, visas (if applicable), and whatever else is not included above. Let’s manage expectations ;)

Last time, I made a guide on Singapore, my favorite country abroad and favorite food destination so far (check the guide here). But this guide is about a close runner-up to the Lion City in terms of gastronomic awesomeness. I’m talking about Malaysia and its capital—Kuala Lumpur (KL). (Warning: This is a long article!)

Food Experiences to Try

Instead of dishes to try, I’ll list down food experiences instead. You will get to sample different dishes in some experiences anyway (but I will single out dishes that made an impression on me). I will also list down the places where to have these experiences. Take note that I’ll include experiences and spots that I have tried and haven’t tried. I’m trusting the local and international food b/vloggers’ recommendations.

Here are the food experiences you can try (click the links for related articles and sites):

Banana Leaf Rice. This food experience has South Indian origins (like Singapore, Malaysia is also a multi-racial nation consisting of the Chinese, Indians, and Malays). This is a rice meal served on a banana leaf, as its name suggests, and eaten with bare hands. Dishes are either brought to your table or you get to choose through an assisted buffet. KL Foodie lists down good banana leaf restaurants.
Chili Pan Mee. This a dry noodle dish that consists of flour noodles, minced pork, anchovies, and fried shallots, then topped with a runny poached egg. A dry chilli mix is served as a condiment. There are 2 restaurants in KL that’s famous for this dish: Restoran Kin Kin and Restoran Super Kitchen. If you visit the Chow Kit area, you’ll see these two establishments (almost) facing one another…literally. Talk about competition!

Because of its chewy noodles and amazing components, chili pan mee is one of my favorite dishes in KL!

Claypot Rice. This dish is famous in Southern China and Southeast Asia, which includes Malaysia and Singapore. It’s made with rice that is cooked along with other ingredients. Typically, the ingredients include chicken, lap cheong (Chinese sausage), salted fish, and vegetables. But there are other variations as well. It’s a world of flavors and textures, in which the burnt taste and crispiness coming from the rice at the bottom of the claypot is most notable. I’ve tried the dish at Heun Kee Claypot Chicken Rice. Fun N’ Taste lists other places here.

Ikan Bakar. If you love grilled food, especially seafood, then head to Lorong Bellamy where there is a strip of grillers serving ikan bakar (literally burnt fish)! Even though ikan means “fish”, ikan bakar can refer to a medley of grilled seafood. I tried it at Kak Jat Ikan Bakar because Mark Wiens first tried the experience here. Here’s a list of other ikan bakar spots.

By the way, if you’re trying ikan bakar at Kak Jat, language barrier might be an issue for you. So check my article here and scroll down to the ikan bakar section. I’ve listed down basic Malay words to help you in ordering.

Indian Food at Brickfields. Brickfields is KL’s Little India. Here, you will find banana leaf restaurants, biryani spots, vegetarian food, and other amazing Indian food. There are also popular non-Indian food spots here, such as Mr. Chiam which is famous for their Pisang Goreng or banana fritters, and Sin Kee Restaurant for Chinese food including their bestselling Steamed Rice. Check out this list for Brickfields food spots.

Jalan Alor Night Market. Jalan Alor is a street located in Bukit Bintang, the shopping and entertainment district of KL. Lined up with hawkers and restaurants, this street is a must-visit for foodies. Granted, this location is touristy so prices are higher than usual. But the food is worth your money, especially Restoran Wong Ah Wah’s plump and juicy grilled chicken wings. Check out other street food that I tried here.

Restoran Wong Ah Wah’s Grilled Chicken Wings and Satay (skewered meat) — Restoran Wong Ah Wah’s Grilled Chicken Wings and *Satay* (skewered meat)

Local Breakfast. You can have dim sum or noodles, Nasi Lemak (a Malay coconut rice dish; more on this later), or Roti Prata (flat bread). But don’t miss out on going to a Kopitiam (traditional coffee shops). My recommended kopitiam is Restoran Yut Kee, which one of the oldest in the city. They’re famous for their Hainanese Chicken Chop and Roti Babi (literally “pork bread”). You may check out the breakfast spots I tried here. KL Foodie also has a good list.
Mamak Stalls (Roti and Teh Tarik). The term mamak refers to Indian Muslims (although I found out that the term can be used derogatorily). A mamak stall refers to an open air food spot that typically serve roti (flatbread) and teh tarik (pulled tea). But some have rice dishes and stir-fried noodles in their menu. Popular mamak spots are Mansion Tea Stall, Valentine Roti, and the biggest Nasi Kandar (a rice dish with an assortment of curries and side dishes) chain in Malaysia, Nasi Kandar Pelita. KL Foodie lists the top 10 mamak stalls in KL.

Valentine Roti (left) and its Roti Valentine (right; yes, that’s the name of the roti!) — Valentine Roti (left) and its Roti Valentine (right; yes, that’s the name of the *roti*!)

Nasi Lemak. No visit to Malaysia, especially in KL, is complete without sampling what is considered its national dish: Nasi lemak! Literally “fat rice”, nasi lemak is a dish consisting of boiled or fried egg, cucumber, ikan bilis (fried anchovies), peanuts, sambal, and of course the rice, which is cooked in santan (coconut milk). It’s usually paired with a viand, in which ayam goreng (fried chicken) is the most popular. Check out my search for the best nasi lemak here.

Nasi Lemak at Nasi Lemak Tanglin — *Nasi Lemak* at Nasi Lemak Tanglin

Ramly Burger. Yes, you read the word burger. But this is not your fancy, Angus or Wagyu burger. Rather, it’s the one you will find sold in the streets. Thus, it’s also referred to as Street Burger. This street burger has a patty made by Ramly, a brand that has a line of halal-certified frozen meat products. The burger has either a beef or chicken patty that’s wrapped in egg (yes, you read that right), shredded cabbage, and plentiful sauces like ketchup and mayonnaise. Each stall has its own gimmick, such as adding tons of cheese or sauces. Whatever way it’s assembled, it’s greasily and messily good! Check out this street burgers list by Fun N’ Taste.

Areas to Visit

I’m listing down areas instead of individual activities, attractions, museums, and shopping spots because I want you to maximize your visit at a particular area and help you save time and fare. Convinced?

However, I will still list down highly-rated and/or personally-recommended activities to do per area or near the area. So pick that areas that you want to visit, the activities you want to do there, and the food experience/s you want to try there as well.

Brickfields

As I mentioned earlier, Brickfields is the Little India of Kuala Lumpur, the Indian enclave of the city. Here’s what you can do and see here:

Religious Sites: Brickfields highlights the country’s cultural and religious diversity as there are many places of worship from different faiths. Aside from Hindu temples, the area is home to Buddhist Maha Vihara (a temple built by the Sinhalese community, the largest ethnic group of Sri Lanka), Church of Our Lady of Fatima (a Roman Catholic church), Madrasathul Gouthiyyah Surau ( (a surau, which could be a smaller version of a mosque or a prayer room), Zion Cathedral (a Lutheran church), among many others. Do a photowalk and appreciate the religious diversity and harmony of this area.
Shopping: If I’m not mistaken, there’s no mall or shopping arcade in the area. But the streets are full of Indian stores, selling garland, groceries and produce, saris, and even Bollywood music.

Recommended Food Spots: Lawanya Food Corner, Mr. Chiam Pisang Goreng, Peter’s Pork Noodle, Sami’s Corner (for biryani rice), Sin Kee Restaurant, Vishal Food & Catering (for banana leaf rice)

Bukit Bintang

This is the shopping and entertainment district of KL. Bukit Bintang can be likened to New York City’s Times Square, as its brightly lit at night and packed with locals and tourists alike. It’s Jalan (Street) Bukit Bintang is KL’s answer to Singapore’s Orchard Road, which is lined up with shopping malls. Here’s what you can do and see here:

Berjaya Times Square, ISETAN KL, Pavilion KL, and More (shopping): You won’t run out of shopping malls in this area. They house local boutiques and international (and designer) brands. So you can get your retail therapy in any budget.
Jalan Alor Night Market: No visit to Bukit Bintang or a food trip to KL will be complete without a visit to this night market. Translated as “Alor Street” in English, Jalan Alor used to be a red light district. It has gone through several facelifts until it became to what it is today—a food haven for locals and tourists alike. It’s a quiet street in daytime and transforms into a night market, hustling and bustling with activity. You’ll encounter people of different nationalities, local performers, and interesting beggars (you’ll know what I mean when you go there).

Recommended Food Spots: Jalan Alor Night Market, Restoran Wong Ah Wah, VCR (for coffee and Western food)

Chinatown

This area is best known for shopping. Here, you’ll see bargain finds and souvenir items. Don’t forget to haggle. Here are places you can shop at:

Central Market: This is a two-storey shopping center that is home to shops selling batik, handicrafts, and not-so-typical souvenirs (meaning, the mass-produced keychain, magnets, and the like). It’s also housed in an art deco building, with a history that dates back to 1888. Compared to other nearby shopping spots, this one is airconditioned.

Jalan Petaling (Petaling Street): This street is synonymous to KL’s Chinatown. It’s a pedestrian street lined-up with retailers selling at bargain prices. Just be aware that there are many knock-offs.

Kasturi Walk: Located just beside the Central Market, this is a covered and open-air flea market. It’s like Petaling Street with fewer crowds. Plus, there are also snack stalls.

Recommended Food Spots: I haven’t done any extensive research on Chinatown food spots. So I’m trusting KL Foodie for their recommendations (check it here). But don’t miss out on Kim Soya Bean at Petaling Street for a refreshing soya drink.

Dataran Merdeka (Independence Square)

Undoubtedly one of the famous landmarks in KL, Dataran Merdeka or the Independence Square consists of a green lawn surrounded with other iconic landmarks such as the Royal Selangor Club, St. Mary’s Anglican Cathedral, Sultan Abdul Samad Building, and the tallest flagpole in the country. It was here where Malaysia declared independence from British rule at midnight of August 31, 1957. No wonder that Malaysians celebrate on the eve of Independence Day, as if waiting for the New Year.

Here’s what you can see here:

Kuala Lumpur City Gallery: If you want to learn about to story of KL, then this is the place to go. Enjoy its audio-visual-lights show, miniature art, unique gift items, and even the durian cake at its café. (Check out my visit here.)

Muzium Tekstil Negara (National Textile Museum): This museum showcases the history and development of textiles, as well as a collection of traditional apparel, accessories, and textiles. It’s also located in a beautiful, historic building with Mughal-style architecture. It’s hard to miss it because of its pink and white stripes.
Sultan Abdul Samad Building: This building has a Moorish design and is considered one of the most beautiful structures in KL. It used to house the offices of the British colonial government and was eventually renamed after the Sultan of the state of Selangor, the former and surrounding state of KL (the city became its own federal territory).

At Dataran Merdeka. At the background is the Sultan Abdul Samad Building.

The Tallest Flagpole in Malaysia: I’m not sure what the official name of this flagpole. It’s the tallest flagpole in Malaysia at 100 meters. It was once the tallest in the world for 20 years until North Korea overtook. Still, it remains one the tallest in the world. It’s in this flagpole that the Union Jack or United Kingdom’s national flag was lowered and the Malaysian flag was hoisted for the first time.

Recommended Food Spots: The nearest food area is at Chinatown so just go there instead. But don’t forget to try ARCH Cafe’s (located in Kuala Lumpur City Gallery) Durian Imperial and Three Layer Tea with Grass Jelly.

Kuala Lumpur City Centre (KLCC)

KLCC is a multi-purpose development that is home to five-star hotels, office buildings, and shopping malls. KL’s most iconic landmark, the Petronas Twin Towers, is also located here. So this is probably the most touristy spot in the city.

Aquaria KLCC: Located beneath Kuala Lumpur Convention Centre, this attraction is one of the largest aquariums in Southeast Asia. It is home to over 150 freshwater and marine species, including electric eels, piranhas, and sharks.
Avenue K, Robinsons, and Suria KLCC: These are shopping malls around the KLCC for your retail fix.

KLCC Park: This is a 40-acre park fronting Suria KLCC. It has a 10,000-square meter man-made lake called Lake Symphony. Catch the light and water fountain show at 8PM, 9PM, and 10PM daily.

Menara KL (KL Tower): This is a tallest telecommunications tower in Malaysia (7th in the world) at 421 meters. Originally erected to improve the telco and broadcast transmission of the country, this has become a popular tourist destination. In fact, I would suggest that you get a panoramic view of the city from its Sky Deck so you can view the Petronas Towers, and even get a photo at the Sky Box, which a cube with a glass floor.

The view of the KL Tower at night from our Airbnb at Bukit Bintang (left) and Sky Box (right)

Petronas Twin Towers (or simply Petronas Towers): No visit to KL will be complete without viewing this engineering feat. In fact, it’s hard to miss it. Everywhere you go in the Malaysian capital, you’ll most likely see the towering structure. Built in 1998 with an Islamic-inspired architecture, the twin towers used be the tallest building in the world (452 meters) until Taipei 101 (508 meters) surpassed it in 2004. Today, its still remains the tallest twin towers. One tower houses the Malaysian state oil company Petronas, while the other houses several multi-national corporations.

The Petronas Towers. In a city tour my friends and I joined at, we were dropped at this spot because it’s said to have the best view of the towers. I’m not so sure about that. LOL.

Recommended Food Spots: Nasi Kandar Pelita, Nasi Lemak Wanjo, Valentine Roti

Tun Abdul Razak Heritage Park (a.k.a. Lake Gardens)

Named after Malaysia’s 2nd Prime Minister, this area consists of different parks, perfect for a quick escape from the hustle and bustle of the city. There are also museums here. Here’s what you can visit in the area:

Islamic Arts Museum Malaysia (IAMM): The IAMM showcases thousands of Islamic artifacts, artworks, and even scale models of different masjid (mosques) around the world, all dispersed in 12 galleries. It’s housed in a massive building with a modern architecture and Islamic feel. This is a good place to learn about Islamic culture. Check out my article here.

IAMM’s Scale Models of Mosques Around the World

KL Bird Park: This is an aviary that is home to 3000 local and foreign birds of 200 species. It employs a free-flight concept, meaning that some of birds can freely fly and roam around the park. So don’t be surprised if you’ll walk by a bird. The free-flight concept helps the birds adapt and breed naturally. I enjoyed my visit here!

A peacock just roaming around at the KL Bird Park. No big deal. LOL.

Muzium Negara (National Museum): If you want to learn about Malaysia’s history and culture, then this is the place to be.
Perdana Botanical Garden: This garden has a man-made lake and houses two more gardens: The Orchid Garden and the Hibiscus Garden (hibiscus is the national flower of Malaysia). Come here and enjoy the greenery and serenity.

Recommended Food Spots: Ikan bakar stalls at Jalan Bellamy (although you will need to drive for a bit), Nasi Lemak Tanglin

Other Areas and Attractions

Bank Negara Malaysia Museum and Art Gallery: This museum by Malaysia’s national bank tells the history of the country’s economy and the bank’s role in it. It also houses an impressive art and numismatic (go research that word!) collection.
Batu Caves: A popular tourist site in the outskirts of KL, this is a limestone hill with several caves, housing Hindu temples. To enter, you must first climb 252 steps and dodge the wild monkeys (LOL!). At the ground level is a huge gold-painted statue of Lord Murugan, a Hindu deity.

Chow Kit: This area is known for its wet market, which is the one of the biggest in the city. So if you want to cook at your home (which I doubt you’ll have the time), this is the place to get the freshest ingredients. By the way, when you visit Chow Kit, don’t forget to try the chili pan mee at either Restoran Kin Kin or Restoran Super Kitchen, which are both nearby the market.

Genting Highlands: Many tourists do a day trip to Genting Highlands, which is an integrated hill resort that is an hour drive away from KL. It is home to hotels, theme parks, and other tourist attractions.

Sample Itinerary

Before I show you my sample itinerary, here are few things to take note of:

The sample itinerary is for a trip of 4 days and 3 nights. For me, this is the minimum length for a trip to be enjoyable. If your trip is longer, then just fill in the additional days.
I included the areas, attractions, and food experiences that you should visit/do for a first-time visit.
Because we all desire to maximize any trip, I assumed that you’re arriving at KL in the morning and leaving in the evening.
I didn’t consider the operating days and times of the attractions and food spots listed in the itinerary. So please do some research and take note of them. Adjust as needed. You don’t want to end up with the attraction or food spot closed.
In the end of the day, it’s your time, money, and trip. So feel free to change anything in the itinerary. If you want to splurge for an activity or food experience, go for it. If you want to sleep in or take a nap in the middle of the day, go for it. Enjoy your trip in the way you want to!

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Tips

Finally, let me give you some tips to maximize your explorations and foodventures:

It’s best to start the day at 8AM with a breakfast to further maximize the day. I’m a big believer in breakfast. I have 2 reasons: First, it’s always good to load some energy for the whole day. Some activities can be strenuous, like climbing up hundreds of steps (in the case of Batu Caves), doing a day hike in the city’s trails, or just walking kilometers within the city. Second, there’s always the tendency to skip lunch or have no food for a long period of time if the day gets too busy or an itinerary stop takes longer than expected.
I have given you a good amount of resource to plan for your exploration and foodventures. But if you still end up in a place where you’re unsure where to eat, try a trusted technique: Look for a place with a lot of customers or where there is a queue. There’s a high chance that those places serve good food.
Sunset at KL is usually at 7PM (this is unusual for someone from the Philippines). So take note of that if you’ll maximize the daylight (for photography purposes) or catch the sunset.
Leave some room for spontaneity. Sometimes, the best experiences happen when we least planned it. But don’t leave too much room lest you end up wasting resources.

Did you find this guide helpful? Is there anything I need to add? Comment them below!

It’s my second time to make an extensive food and travel guide of a city (check out the first one on Singapore here). So I’d really appreciate your feedback!