The Search for the Best Vigan Empanada

I’m doing a 4-part series on our Vigan City Food Trip last August. The first one is about the food experiences to try at the city (read it here.)

Like Bagnet (Ilocano deep-fried pork belly) and Vigan Longganisa (Filipino sausage), another Vigan delicacy that you shouldn’t miss is Vigan Empanada.

Vigan Empanada is a popular snack sold in stalls and restaurants. Think of it as a half moon-shaped, taco-like snack. It’s typically made of eggs, grated green papaya, and skinless Vigan Longganisa, wrapped in a thin rice flour batter, and deep fried to a crisp. Each stall has their own variety (such as with meat or vegetarian) and portioning (double the meat or double all ingredients).

This is not to be mistaken with Batac Empanada of Ilocos Norte (Batac is a town in the province). While there are similarities in the way they are prepared and eaten, there are notable differences. This article lists down four: The Batac version has an orange color due to atsuete oil, uses bean sprouts in addition to grated green papaya, uses the longganisa of Laoag (Ilocos Norte’s capital), and uses an entire egg instead of just the yolk (although some Vigan version do, too). Additionally, it can be eaten with ketchup instead of vinegar, or mix of both. I’m hoping to travel up north again to try Batac Empanada.

Anyway, I tried three empanadahan (empanada store) in Vigan. All of them have crisp empanadas, the same ingredients for the filling, crisp veggies, and tasty longganisa. But each offer different amounts of ingredients (like one or two offer a double of everything). So my only criteria is how it was cooked.

Without further ado, here are the empanadahans that I tried in alphabetical order:

A Stall in Plaza Burgos

Just outside Plaza Burgos, in the Florentino Street side, are stall after stall of empanadahan where locals eat. Of course, I had to try the Vigan Empanada there.

Empanadahans at Plaza Burgos

Since each stall had more or less the same number of customers, I just randomly picked one.

What I liked about their empanada is when I halved it, the egg yolk oozed out. I’m not sure if that’s the traditionally way a Vigan Empanada is prepared. But one thing I’m sure of—I like it!

Empanada at a stall in Plaza Burgos (PHP40)

Address: Plaza Burgos, Florentino St., Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines

Casa Jardin

When we asked our kalesa (carriage) driver where the best Vigan Empanada is, he recommended Casa Jardin. And we made that a stop there during our kalesa tour.

Casa Jardin

Casa Jardin, or CJs as the locals call it, is a relatively young player and a rising star in the Vigan Empanada industry. Yet, they make good empanadas. Housed in a ruins that’s Instagrammable, CJs is also known for offering a foot-long empanada!

They make their empanadas made to order (and if I remember it right, they’re the only empandahan among the three that makes empanada made to order). What I like about their version is the nice crunch from the veggies and the fluffiness of the eggs.

Empanada fresh from the fryer at Casa Jardin

Casa Jardin’s Double Double Special (PHP100)

Address: V. Delos Reyes cor. Mabini Sts., Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines | Operating Hours: TBA | Contact No.: 0977-8294347 | Facebook

Irene’s

Located in Calle Salcedo and also in the world-famous Calle Crisologo, Irene’s is probably the most famous empanadahan in all of Vigan. While it was only in 2004 that the owner, Irene Santos, added her name to the brand, this institution has been around since 1930!

Irene’s Vigan Empanada at Calle Crisologo

I have to be honest that I was underwhelmed by their empanada. Although it tastes good, it lacked a wow factor and I think that the egg was overcooked. Maybe I just had a batch that’s been sitting for long.

Irene’s Empanada. Sorry, I almost finished it before I took a photo of it. LOL.

But I don’t want to dismiss Irene’s. If I return to Vigan, I’ll give it another shot or try their Pasig branch (if it’s still open).

Address: 11 Salcedo St. & Calle Crisologo, Vigan City, Ilocos Sur, Philippines | Operating Hours: 9AM-8PM | Contact No.: 0916-3582443 | Facebook

And the best is…

Casa Jardin!

I think there’s no such thing as a bad Vigan Empanada. Wherever you try it, it will definitely satisfy your tastebuds. But it all boils down to whose empanada has the highest wow factor (and the nicest egg; this has become the battle of the eggs inside the empanadas! LOL.). And for that, I choose Casa Jardin.

Do you agree with my choice? Which of the Vigan empanadahans above have you tried or would like to try? Is there an empanadahan that I missed and should try next? Comment below!