Pilya's Kitchen: Serving Freshly Hand-Pulled Biang Biang Noodles

For the past years, I’ve been watching two of my favorite food vloggers eat regional Chinese noodle dishes (by “regional” I meant non-Cantonese, which is probably the most common Chinese cuisine outside China and even in the Philippines). Strictly Dumpling’s Mikey Chen roamed around the Chinatowns in the U.S. and in different parts of the globe to slurp on some noodz (yup, I know how it sounds). Trevor James a.k.a. The Food Ranger traveled within mainland China and “went deep” (his favorite expression) in the alleys to search for amazing bowls of noodles. As I was watching them, I was asking myself, “Where can I eat regional Chinese noodles here in Manila?”

Recently, regional Chinese restaurants have been popping up in Makati due to the influx of Chinese workers. While I’ve been meaning to try them, I’m hesitant due to lack of reviews and recommendations. Then on one fateful day, I stumbled upon a Facebook group where someone asked where to find the best Biang Biang Noodles similar to the ones made by New York City’s Xi’an Famous Foods (XFF). Many answered this: Pilya’s Kitchen.

Pilya’s Kitchen used to be a home-based business that started during the community quarantine. It’s helmed by Kriza Palmero, who worked as a sous chef at Very Fresh Noodles of Chelsea Market, an iconic culinary destination in the Big Apple.

I instantly checked their Instagram account and their noodles looked legit. Unfortunately, they were closed temporarily during that time. But they halted operations for a bit so they can prepare for their pop-up at The Grid Food Market at the Power Plant Mall, Rockwell, Makati. They officially opened their stall on February 12. What a blessing for me!

Their menu is simple, consisting of Noodz, Sides, and Drinks. Here’s what I tried:

Noodz

Spicy Pork Dan Dan Noodles. Dan Dan Noodles or Dandanmian is one of the quintessential dishes of the Sichuan cuisine, which is known for their mala (spicy and numbing) flavors. Named after the bamboo carrying pole used be vendors, dandanmian is a noodle dish that primarily composed of minced meat, chilis, sesame paste, and Sichuan peppercorns. So if you can imagine, it’s nutty, spicy, and numb-y.

Pilya’s version has chewy noodles, covered in creamy and nutty sauce due to sesame paste. It has peanuts and cucumbers which give crunch, while the latter add freshness. I love this dish because it reminds me of Tantanmen Ramen, which is actually a descendant of dandanmian!

Taiwanese Beef Noodle Soup. Beef Noodle Soup is considered to be the national dish of Taiwan. In my trip there back in 2018 (series will be uploaded soon; didn’t have the time to transfer from Facebook notes to here), I got to try it at Taipei’s Lin Dong Fang, which is awarded with a Michelin Bib Gourmand and recommended by favorite food vloggers Erwan Heussaff (The Fat Kid Inside), Luke Martin (Chopstick Travel), and Mark Wiens. That bowl of noodles turned out to be my favorite dish of my entire trip. I’m glad that Pilya’s is offering it. So does it pass my standards?

Admittedly, Pilya’s version is different from Lin Dong Fang’s and the other ones I tried in Taiwan. For instance, they use their signature broad biang biang noodles while the ones in Taiwan use the standard narrow noodles (I don’t know if “narrow” is the right term). Also, theirs has more toppings while the ones in Taiwan are simpler.

So was I disappointed? Not at all! Pilya’s makes an amazing rendition of the Taiwanese beef noodle soup. Their broth is bold, beefy, slightly sour due to vinegar, and a bit spicy due to the chili oil. The beef is tender, with some pieces have fat with it. Then the bok choy and chopped celery add crunch, while the coriander and spring onion add flavor.

Tingly Cumin Noodles. Finally, the noodles that made me try Pilya’s! This noodle dish is made of biang biang noodles or biangbiangmian. But up to this point, I still haven’t given you any information about the said noodles. So let me drop some knowledge bombs!

Biangbiangmian are broad, hand-pulled noodles often used in the cuisine of Shaanxi province, where Xi’an is its capital. The noodles got its name from the sound it makes when it’s slapped on a surface (especially on stainless steel). When you order at Pilya’s pop-up store, you’ll witness chef Kriza stretch and slap on the noodles. Biang biang! LOL!

Pilya’s offers several varieties of its Tingly Cumin Noodles: Beef (dry only), Lamb (dry or soup), and Shiitake Mushrooms and Tofu (dry or soup). Because I’ve been hearing a lot about Xi’an Famous Foods’ Spicy Cumin Lamb Noodles, I went for the lamb option. Here’s a trivia: While spicy cumin lamb is a common dish in Northern China, XFF claims that they’re the one who started the trend of combining it with biang biang noodles.

The chewy and smooth biang biang noodles! — The chewy and smooth *biang biang* noodles!

So how was Pilya’s version of the lamb noodles? The noodles were perfectly chewy and smooth, covered in a gravy that’s cumin-y, savory, spicy, and tangy from the vinegar. The lamb is tender and not gamey at all, and I think the coriander balances the flavor (I’m still getting used to the taste of lamb). The bell peppers, onions, and shredded cabbage all add a nice crunch. My only issue is that I didn’t feel a tingly sensation. (Were my tastebuds numb? LOL. But seriously, it doesn’t work that way.)

Sides

Pilya’s also offers 3 side dishes to go with their noodles. I only tried 2 of them because I’m allergic to the Pork & Shrimp Dumpling.

Braised Pork Chinese Burger. Called Rou Jia Mo in Chinese, this is another food originating from Shaanxi province and widely available throughout China. It’s basically shredded braised pork sandwiched between two pan-toasted pita-like bread. Pilya’s rou jia mo has aromatic, savory, and tender pork filling. Trying it, I instantly thought that it’s the opposite of the Cantonese Char Siu Bao (barbecued pork bun) and the Taiwanese Gua Bao, which have a sweet filling stuffed in or sandwiched between fluffy Mantou (steamed bun).

Spicy Smashed Cucumbers. This salad has cold cucumbers that have a nice crunch, all sitting on a sweet, tangy, and spicy sauce. It’s a refreshing treat and I think it’s also a palette cleanser.

Drinks

Pilya’s only offers canned soda and bottled water. But try Apple Sidra, which is a Taiwanese apple soda. The drink has caramel in it and that’s why it feels like you’re drinking A&W’s Cream Soda, I think.

All the items I tried at Pilya’s Kitchen were amazing! The noodle dishes are worlds of flavors and textures! So I highly recommend that you pay it a visit soon (when it’s safe; publishing this during a resurgence of COVID-19 cases). Or if you can’t wait, do a takeaway!

Which of the items above have you tried or would like to try? Comment them below!

Address: Stall #11, The Grid Food Market, R2 Power Plant Mall, Rockwell, Brgy. Poblacion, Makati City | Operating Hours: Tuesday-Friday, 11AM-9PM; Saturday & Sunday, 10AM-9PM | Facebook | Instagram