Johor Bahru Food Trip: Eating My Way in Peninsular Malaysia’s Southernmost City

Fish Head Curry at Restoran Kam Long Ah Zai, Johor Bahru, Malaysia

I’ve been wanting to visit Malaysia. Eating at PappaRam, a Malaysian diner at Marikina, and watching vlogs of Malaysian food created a strong desire in me to visit the country and try its amazing cuisine. Last August, I finally visited the country.

But not in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia’s capital (I’m planning to visit it next year!). Since I have a conference in Singapore in the last weekend of August, I decided to fly days ahead, cross the border, and explore Johor Bahru (JB), the southernmost city of peninsular Malaysia. While tourists flock here mainly for Legoland (which I enjoyed so much, bringing childhood memories!), JB is a wonderful place to do a food trip. The city is just full of amazing food spots!

Aside from the wonderful flavors, the food in JB is also incredibly cheap, especially if you compare it with Singapore prices. Actually, everything in JB is affordable, including accommodations and transportation. When I was lazy to walk, I just opted for Grab, a ride-hailing app widely-used in Southeast Asia. A five- to ten-minute ride costed me just MYR5, which is roughly PHP70. So if you’re planning a trip to Singapore but would want to save money, consider a few nights to spend at JB.

And if you’re planning a trip to JB, also consider doing a food trip. To help you plan, I’m listing down the amazing dishes (and drinks) that I tried in JB:

Banana Cake at Hiap Joo Bakery & Biscuit Factory

Hiap Joo is known for their banana cakes (they call it cake instead of bread) and has been in operation since 1919. They still bake their breads in a traditional oven using wood fire. Almost a century old, this bakery must’ve perfected the banana bread. Have they?

Hiap Joo Bakery & Biscuit Factory (5 pcs. Banana Cakes: RM4.80) — Hiap Joo Bakery & Biscuit Factory (5 pcs. Banana Cakes: MYR4.80)

I’m used to banana bread that are dense. But Hiap Joo’s version is different because it’s fluffy. In fact, it’s the fluffiest (and for me, the best) banana bread I have ever tried! So yes, they have perfected the banana bread!

Address: 13 Jalan Tan Hiok Nee, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Monday-Saturday, 7:30AM-5PM; Sunday, 8:30AM-10AM | Facebook

Cantonese Meats at Restoran Ya Wang

Honestly, there’s really nothing spectacular with the Cantonese meats in this place. I’m sure that there are better ones in other places. But you can never go wrong with roast meats, especially when it’s very, very affordable.

I got 2 rice toppings and tried 4 kinds of meats (Char Siu or Honey BBQ Pork, Herbal Roasted Duck, Roasted Chicken, and Roasted Pork). Then I got Kopi (coffee with condensed milk) and “Michael Jackson”, a soy milk drink (white) with grass jelly (black). Guess how much I spent for all these.

I forgot to take note of the individual prices. But this feast costed me only MYR25!

Address: 28 Jalan Segget, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Daily, 8AM-6PM

Coconut Wine at Kedai Tuak Awam/Tody Shop

This is a popular stop among food vloggers so I thought of making a stop here as well. This shop is located in an unassuming (shady?) house.

Tody Shop (Mug: RM3) — Tody Shop (Mug: MYR3)

The homemade tody/toddy (coconut wine) is just like carbonated coconut water with a tinge of alcohol. I’m guessing it’ll be better if it’s chilled or iced.

I haven’t tried lambanog, Philippines’ version of the coconut wine. But I’m guessing it tastes the same.

Address: Jalan Sulaiman, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Daily, 10AM-4PM

Chrysanthemum Tea at Kedai Minuman Kok Yow Yong

On a hot day, this cold chrysanthemum tea is a refreshing drink!

Kedai Minuman Kok Yow Yong (Chrysanthemum Tea: RM1) — Kedai Minuman Kok Yow Yong (Chrysanthemum Tea: MYR1)

Address: Jalan Pesar cor. Jalan Trus, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Monday-Saturday, 6AM-1AM

Fish Head Curry at Restoran Kam Long Ah Zai

Fish Head Curry is a popular dish in Malaysia and Singapore. It’s a mix of Chinese (fish head) and Indian (curry) influences. I missed to try this dish in my Singapore trip last year. Since I learned that Restoran Kam Long is famous for this, I made sure I visit. In fact, it’s my first food stop in JB.

I’m glad it was my first stop because their fish head curry was amazing! The fish head is reasonably meaty and the broth is spicy, creamy, and a little sweet. There’s also a play of textures. There’s softness from the beancurd skin and crunch from the vegetables, which are cabbage, okra, and string beans, if I remember correctly. The dish is perfect with rice!

Fish Head Curry (One Person: RM20) — Fish Head Curry (One Person: MYR20)

I’m also glad that I just got the “One Person” portion instead of the small one. It’s already big for me considering my huge appetite :)

Address: 74 Jalan Wong Ah Fook, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Daily, 8AM-4PM

Kway Teow Soup at Restoran Sekee

Kway teow actually refers to rice noodles (thus, a char kway teow, one of my favorite Malaysian/Singaporean dishes, is a stir-fried rice noodle dish). At Restoran Sekee, they serve kway teow in a soup, mixed with pork and other pig parts.

The broth is porky because of all the different pig parts in it. There’s heart, liver, minced meat, and cracklings. Since the noodles is made of rice, it feels like I’m eating pho.

Kway Teow Soup (RM8) — *Kway Teow* Soup (MYR8)

I had the noodle soup for breakfast. It’s a good way to start the day!

Address: 30 Jalan Segget, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 7:30AM-2:30PM

Hainanese Chicken Chop and Fried Rice at IT Roo Cafe

A Hainanese Chicken Chop is a dish made of fried boneless chicken drenched with gravy and served with potatoes and vegetables. Now that sounds Western more than Chinese or Hainanese, you might think. And you’re right. This is because Hainanese cooks would serve this dish to the Brits, who were Malaysia’s colonizers and who preferred meat and potatoes.

There are 2 known JB restaurants that serve this dish, both located in the same street. One is IT Roo Cafe, which claims to serve the best Hainanese chicken chop in town. It’s cooked in 2 ways (fried or grilled) and served with 2 sauces (black pepper sauce or mushroom sauce).

I got the grilled version with black pepper sauce and with 2 eggs. Man, it’s amazing! The chop is made of chicken thighs and is tender, swimming in a flavorful peppery gravy. The dish is also a play of textures, with creaminess coming from the potato wedges and crispiness from the coleslaw and cucumber. The eggs were runny and also amazing!

IT Roo's Chicken Chop 2 Eggs (RM17) — IT Roo's Chicken Chop 2 Eggs (MYR17)

I can’t help but order the IT Roo Fried Rice, which is also amazing (how many times did I say that word?).

IT Roo Fried Rice (RM7.50) — IT Roo Fried Rice (MYR7.50)

The Hainanese chicken chop at IT Roo is just so good that I went at another time and tried the fried version with mushroom gravy!

Address: 17 Jalan Dhoby, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Daily, 12PM-9:30PM

Hainanese Chicken Chop at Restoran Hua Mui

Restoran Hua Mui is the other restaurant that serves Hainanese chicken chop. Unlike IT Roo Cafe, they only serve a traditional version of the dish, which is fried and drenched in mushroom gravy.

Retro Kopitiam (Coffee Shop) Feels at Restoran Hua Mui

How do I find Hua Mui’s chicken chop? It’s also nice. The chicken chop is crispy in the outside and tender in the inside. It’s also juicy that when I poked my fork on it, the juice squirted (or was that oil?). It’s served with potato wedges, sliced tomatoes, and green peas.

Hua Mui's Hainanese Chicken Chop (RM15.90) — Hua Mui's Hainanese Chicken Chop (MYR15.90)

So which has the better chicken chop? I will have to go with IT Roo, for the simple reason that theirs have a variety...and coleslaw. Sorry, Hua Mui. May you be consoled that you are a good kopitiam (coffee shop) and serve good toast sets.

Jalan Trus Branch (Main) Address: 131 Jalan Trus, Johor Bahru, Johor | Operating Hours: Daily, 8:30AM-5:30PM | Facebook

Laksa at W.W. Laksa House

Laksa is a noodle dish with a coconut milk broth. It’s a popular Malay food and has many varieties. Johor (the state) has its own version.

At first, I didn’t want to try it because I fear that the broth might have shrimp (I’m allergic to it!). But for some reason I’m not sure of, I took a risk and went to W.W. Laksa House, one of JB’s famous laksa places.

W.W. Laksa House (Medium Laksa: RM7) — W.W. Laksa House (Medium Laksa: MYR7)

Their laksa is amazing! The broth is coconut-y, creamy, and spicy, and the yellow noodles are bouncy. There is a ton of ingredients as well, like deshelled blood cockles, dumplings, fish cakes, fish balls, and tofu.

And yes, the risk is worth it!

Address: 36A & 36A1 Jalan Kolam Air, Taman Kolam Air, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Daily, 8AM-3PM | Facebook

Pisang Goreng at Pisang Goreng Mawar

If you love banana fritters, then this is the place to be. The pisang goreng (literally fried banana) at Pisang Goreng Mawar is to die for!

It’s crispy in the outside and the batter crisps add to the texture. It’s also served with a savory sauce. However, I’m not a big fan of the combination. I’m happy with the fritters alone. And it’s so good I had to bring home 10 more pieces of it!

The pisang goreng (RM1/2 pcs.) is great with teh ais or iced tea (RM2) — The pisang goreng (MYR1/2 pcs.) is great with *teh ais* or iced tea (RM2)

Address: Jalan Sungai Chat, Sri Gelam, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Sunday-Friday, 11AM-7PM

Roti Canai at Bukit Cagar/CHAGAR

If you want to try a breakfast that is not the usual toast and kopi at kopitiams, then get a roti canai. A roti canai is a Mamak- (Indian Muslim) influenced flatbread that’s normally served with a curry or dhal for dipping. The best one in JB is found at Roti Canai Bukit Cagar/Chagar (Bukit Cagar/Chagar is also the name of the area).

Their roti canai amazing! It’s crispy in the outside and doughy/chewy in the inside. It’s available in 2 forms: Plain or with egg. I got both but I like the plain one better. Dip it in the curry sauce and eat it with kopi or teh tarik (pulled tea), and it becomes an awesome breakfast!

Roti Canai (Plain: RM1, With Egg: RM2) — *Roti Canai* (Plain: MYR1; With Egg: MYR2)

Address: 394 Jalan Tengku Azizah, Bukit Chagar, Johor Bahru, Johor, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Daily, 7AM-11AM

What dishes or food spots above have you tried or would like to try? What should I try next? Comment them below.