I was supposed to be in Hong Kong (HK) last February. Months ago, my concern was the protests. When it seemed to have died down, another concern arose: The Coronavirus or COVID-19 Pandemic. At first, I was positive that my trip will push through. I just have to strengthen my immune system and take extra precautions. But a few weeks before my long-awaited trip, the Philippine government banned flights going to China and its special administrative regions, which includes HK.

I thought of rerouting to Bangkok and discover Thai cuisine. But the cases there were rising as well. So the most responsible thing that I can do is to just go domestic and return to the King City of the South*: Davao City.

Davao City is located in, although it is independently governed from it, Davao del Sur, a province in Mindanao, the southern region of the Philippines. It is the largest city in the country in terms of land area and the 3rd populous, running after Quezon City and Manila. Tourists flock here for its nice attractions like Eden Nature Park, its proximity to Samal Island and its beaches (it’s just a boat ride away), and, of course, its amazing culinary landscape. (From now on, I will refer to the city as simply Davao.)

I’ve been to Davao three years ago. That trip was the first trip I organized outside of Luzon (I love doing it for friends). We didn’t do an extensive food trip as we were trying to visit as many tourist sites as possible. I also got to watch Davao videos by the Best Ever Food Review Show’s Sonny Side and Strictly Dumpling’s Mikey Chen. If foreign vloggers featured Davao, then I should all the more do the same. This strengthened my resolve to go back and, as The Food Ranger Trevor James would like to say, go deep into Davao’s gastronomic scene.

So I’m starting a series on my Davao food trip. It will last until the end of April, with a break during the Holy Week. In this article, I will be listing down the food experiences (in alphabetical order) that you should try when visiting Davao:

Banana-Infused Dishes at Saging Repablik

Saging Repablik (literally banana republic) offers not just desserts and snacks that use bananas but also savory dishes infused with the fruit. In my first trip to Davao, I got to try their Sisag (sisig and saging), their “banana-rized” take on sisig, an iconic Filipino dish made with chopped pig’s face (check my sisig food crawl here).

I went back mainly for their desserts, in which Turonutella is my favorite. It’s a modern take on a classic Filipino snack, Turon (fried banana spring roll). They added Nutella, which makes a simple turon to a whole new level.

Address: Tionko Ave. cor. V. Mapa St., Poblacion District, Davao City | Operating Hours: Monday-Saturday, 11AM-12AM; Sunday, 6PM-12AM | Facebook

Carabao (Water Buffalo!) Meat Dishes

Yes, you read that right. Carabao meat, also known as carabeef, is a delicacy in Davao. It’s used in different dishes like Bulalo, a soup dish that’s typically made with bone-in beef shank.

I asked a waitress where they source their carabeef and she told me that they get it from Bankerohan Public Market, the city’s most popular market. If they get it from there, then carabeef must be common in Davao, I thought.

Stay tuned for my article on carabeef dishes that I tried.

Chicken Inato at Penong’s

If there is Iloilo’s Mang Inasal, a grilled chicken barbecue food chain, in the entire archipelago, then there’s Penong’s in Davao. It is a food chain known for their Chicken Inato. Inasal and inato are both methods of preparing and grilling a chicken, popular in Western Visayas (the country’s central region), especially in the island of Negros. The difference is in the marinade. Inasal is savory while inato is sweet (check out my chicken inasal crawl in Bacolod here).

Inato Meal 2 (P129) — *Inato* Meal 2 (P129)

Penong’s inato is true to its name. It is certainly sweet and has a juicy and tender flesh. In fact, I find it sweeter than expected (or what I remember) so a toyomansi (soy sauce with calamansi) is a wonderful dip.

There are many branches of Penong’s in Davao. Check them out here.

Durian and Its Products

No visit to Davao is complete without trying the King of Fruits: Durian! After all, the city is also nicknamed the Durian Capital of the Philippines.

To the uninitiated, durian is a tropical fruit indigenous to Southeast Asia. It has thorny exterior, creamy flesh, and, most notably, pungent smell. It’s either you love it or abhor it. My favorite food vloggers Mark Wiens, Trevor James, and Chasing a Plate’s Thomas and Sheena Southam love it. Even the late Anthony Bourdain is a fan of it. He humorously said that after eating durian, “Your breath will smell as if you’d been French-kissing your dead grandmother.” LOL. I’m just glad to have joined those foodie heavyweights in the list of durian lovers!

Durian at Magsaysay Fruit Vendors Association (P150/kilo)

So while in Davao, I made sure I ate lots of durian and durian products, in which I will feature in a separate article.

Davao Durian Cheesecake at Lachi’s (P85)

Fruits

Aside from durian, Pomelo (or Pummelo) and Marang, a fruit species in the same family of jackfruit and breadfruit.

Let me focus more on marang. Since it’s in the same family as jackfruit, it’s appearance looks the same. People say that it also has a strong odor (some describe it like gasoline) so, like durian, it’s not allowed in many establishments. Honestly, I didn’t experience a bad smell with my marang.

The inside is white and has lots of seeds. The flesh is silky smooth and super sweet.

The Interior of Marang — The Interior of *Marang*

The best place to buy marang and even durian is at Magsaysay Fruit Vendors Association, commonly known as the Magsaysay Fruit Stands. For pomelo, just go to Bankerohan Public Market.

Address of Magsaysay Fruit Vendors Association: Ramon Magsaysay Ave., Poblacion District, Davao City | Operating Hours: TBA

Imbao

Imbao or Mangrove Clams is a kind of shellfish similar to clam. It is abundant in Visayas and Mindanao. Imbao dishes are common in Davao food spots. It is usually eaten in soup dishes like Sinigang (sour soup) or Tinola (ginger base). But some food spots even turns this shellfish into a baked dish (with butter, cheese, and garlic) or a chowder.

LUGAw and Tokwa’t Baboy at Davao Dencia’s Restaurant

This combo keeps on popping up when I was researching for the trip. A friend, who grew up in Davao, even recommended it to me. Obviously, it’s a favorite among locals. But I was hesitant because it’s just Lugaw (rice porridge) and Tokwa’t Baboy (literally tofu and pork).

Davao Dencia’s Restaurant, or simply Dencia’s, is a food spot that serves Chinese and Filipino dishes. An institution in the city, Dencia’s has been in existence for over 50 years! But interestingly, it started in Manila and only transferred to Davao in the 60s when its owners relocated to the city.

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I went there to check what the lugaw and tokwa’t baboy hype all about. The porridge resembles a congee more than the local lugaw. It also has ox tripe in it (thus, this is a goto). The tokwa’t baboy has fried tofu covered generously with strips of pork, all drenched in a sour and salty soy-based sauce. I just wish that the sauce has an inkling of sweetness.

Lugaw (P85) and Tokwa’t Baboy (P100) — *Lugaw* (P85) and *Tokwa’t Baboy* (P100)

Honestly, there’s nothing spectacular with the combo. However, it a very comforting food. Now I know why locals love it. It will make a perfect breakfast or merienda (snack).

Address: General Luna St., Poblacion District, Davao City | Operating Hours: Daily, 7AM-9PM | Facebook

Halal Food

Compared to Luzon (northern region) and Visayas, Mindanao has a higher Muslim population. This is because Muslim traders and missionaries entered the country through the Sulu Archipelago, which is located in the western part of Mindanao.

Halal Dishes at Ante Movina’s Muslim Eatery — *Halal* Dishes at Ante Movina’s Muslim Eatery

With a high concentration of Muslims in Mindanao, there is an abundance of Halal food and food spots as well. Halal literally means permissible, allowed, or lawful (as opposed to haram, which means forbidden or unlawful) in Arabic. It refers to Islamic dietary practices prescribed by the Quran. For a food to be declared halal, it has to go through a specific permitted process of slaughtering and preparation. Also, there are animals and products that are outrightly considered non-halal, in which pork is the most known one.

Halal Roasted Chicken over Biryani Rice at Tinhat Chicken Haus (plating mine) — *Halal* Roasted Chicken over Biryani Rice at Tinhat Chicken Haus (plating mine)

Since Davao is in Mindanao (and because I was inspired by Sonny Side), I visited halal food spots in the city. Stay tuned for my article on my halal food crawl soon!

Malagos Cheese and Chocolate

Davao is home to world-class cheese and chocolate from Malagos (it’s named after a district in Davao). In my first visit to the city, I was able to experience a private cheese tasting with the cheesemaker herself, Ms. Olive Puentespina. Her amazing cheeses, partnered with her inspiring lessons and stories, made an impact on me and my friends. It was the most memorable activity on our itinerary.

The chocolates of Malagos are also superb. It’s my default pasalubong (souvenir) from Davao. But I will reserve my thoughts on it in a separate article. In the following months, I will write about my visit to the Malagos Chocolate Museum. Keep in touch for that!

You can buy both Malagos cheeses and chocolates at the Puentespina Compound (see details below).

Address: Bolcan St., Agdao, Davao City

Malagos Farmhouse (for cheese) Operating House: Monday-Saturday, 8AM-6PM | Facebook | Website

Malagos Chocolate Head Office Operating Hours: Monday-Saturday, 8:30AM-5:30PM | Facebook | Website

Pancit Lug-Lug (and Durian Pie) at Cecil’s Snack Inn & Bakeshoppe

I was supposed to visit Cecil’s in my first trip to Davao. But due to a loaded itinerary, I passed on this one. I’m not sure what I missed back then until I visited it in my recent trip!

Like Dencia’s, Cecil’s is also an institution in the city with more than 50 years of existence. It was started by Rosita Ginoo back in 1963 when she turned her cooking skills into a business venture. After a few years, she opened a small store together with her husband Nazario. In 1971, they named the business after their youngest child at that time, Maria Cecilia. Today, it has several branches across the city.

Cecil’s is known for their Pancit Lug-Lug (or Luglug), a version of Pancit Palabok, a noodle dish covered in thick orange shrimp sauce, and topped with different ingredients such as boiled egg, chicharon (deep fried pork rinds) bits, and sometimes tinapa (smoked fish) flakes. The difference is in the noodles in which lug-lug has thicker ones. Cecil’s version has chewy noodles covered in a rich and thick gravy, with the chicharon giving a nice crunch.

Durian Pie (P70) and Pancit Lug-Lug (P80) — Durian Pie (P70) and *Pancit Lug-Lug* (P80)

But the real winner is the Durian Pie! It has a creamy filling with a perfect durian flavor. This is what I missed in my first visit! How can I miss this amazing pie?! I love it so much that I had 2 slices of it. If I only had extra money, I would buy a whole pie and finish it by myself!

Cecil’s has several branches across the city. There’s not one site where the branches are listed. So just Google the branches. LOL.

Puto Maya and Tsokolate (And Kinutil) at the Painitan of Bankerohan Public Market

In Bisaya (the language in Davao), Painitan means cafe (saw this from a Bisaya-English dictionary online). But don’t expect a posh coffee shop like Starbucks. Rather, a painitan is a humble stall that serves a combo of Puto Maya and Tsokolate and is typically found in a public market. You will see a high concentration of painitan at Bankerohan Public Market.

Puto maya is a steamed rice cake made with coconut milk…and ginger (that’s an unusual ingredient for a rice cake). It’s traditionally paired with tsokolate (literally chocolate but refers to a hot chocolate drink in this case), sometimes called sikwate. (It is worth noting that there is a cacao industry in Davao. Thus, there is the Malagos brand).

While there are many painitans in Bankerohan, I went to Emy’s Painitan as I noticed that it has a bigger space compared to others (for me, the size of a food spot can be an indicator of its success, which is achieved due to the quality of its products). I got their version of puto maya and tsokolate, which only cost P37. I was expecting that both would be sweet. On the contrary, there’s almost no sweetness at all.

Puto Maya and Tsokolate (Total of P37) — *Puto Maya* and *Tsokolate* (Total of P37)

But if you want a power drink, head over to Del Mar’s Painitan and order a Kinutil. It’s basically hot chocolate with the addition of a raw egg and tuba (coconut wine). It’s a nice hot chocolate with a little hint of alcohol. It will definitely warm you up!

Del Mar’s Painitan (Kinutil: P70) — Del Mar’s Painitan (*Kinutil*: P70)

Roxas Night Market

A true food trip in Davao City won’t also be complete without a visit to Roxas Night Market, named after the street where the night market is located. It’s open daily from 6PM to midnight.

Here, you will not run out of options. You’ll find stuff like Balut (fertilized duck egg with an embryo!), Buchi (sesame balls), and grilled items (including tuna), among many others.

Stay tuned this Thursday for my article on Roxas Night Market.

Address: Roxas Ave., Poblacion District, Davao City | Operating Hours: Daily, 6PM-12AM

Sans Rival and Durian Cheesecake at Lachi’s Sans Rival Atbp.

Lachi’s is one of my favorite food spots in my first visit to Davao. Tucked away in a quiet neighborhood, it’s a casual restaurant that serves comfort food, including my favorites Country Chicken Mozzarella and the Unforgettable Grilled Pork Ribs. But I went back mainly for their most popular dessert: Sans Rival. Literally “no rival” or “without rival”, sans rival is a Filipino dessert made with layers of buttercream, meringue, and chopped cashew nuts.

I can’t remember any outstanding sans rival. I guess I’m not just a fan because it can be overly buttery. But Lachi’s version made an impression. It has an interesting mouthfeel, like eating a crispified chiffon cake. Then it’s cover with a creamy icing (though overly rich for me) and crunchy cashews. It’s also not too sweet.

While you’re there (and if you’re a fan of durian), try their Davao Durian Cheesecake (P85; see photo at the durian products section), which is recognized as the best in Davao by SunStar Best of Davao. It’s rightly rich and has a nice durian flavor. (Prior to my visit, I didn’t know that there is a Best of Davao. The Best of Cebu helped me a lot on my trip in Cebu, an island in Central Visayas. Think of it as Cebu’s Michelin Guide. Start my Cebu Food Trip series here.)

Address: Door 1-H, Values School Building, Ruby St., Marfori Subdivision, Poblacion District, Davao City | Operating Hours: Monday-Saturday, 11AM-10PM | Facebook

Tuna

Located beside Davao Gulf, which is connected to the Pacific Ocean, Davao City is blessed with an abundance of seafood. Since it’s also a few hours drive from General Santos City, the Tuna Capital of the Philippines, you will definitely not run out of tuna places in the city. Try Kinilaw (Philippine ceviche), Panga (jaw), and even Bagaybay (sperm sac) and Bihud (egg sac).

Check out my 2-part tuna experience starting April 13.

What dishes or food experiences above have you already tried or would like to try? What food experience should I try next? Comment them below!

*Prior to drafting this article, I didn’t know that the city is nicknamed King City of the South. At first, I laughed because Cebu City, which I visited last November, is nicknamed the Queen City of the South (are they royal partners?). So I researched why Davao was nicknamed as such But I haven’t found the answer yet. So if you know anything about this nickname, let me hear from you. Leave a comment below.

Davao City Food Trip: Food Experiences to Try at the King City of the South