Angeles Food Trip: Food Experiences to Try at the Birthplace of Sisig
Because of the quarantine season, I couldn’t travel or do some foodventure. Thankfully, I still have a few more article ideas to last me for the entire May. Since I haven’t done a “summary” article of food experiences to try in Angeles City (Pampanga) and Bacolod (Negros Occidental), I will now write about it today and on Thursday. Let’s start with Angeles.
If I want to do get out of the Metro and do a food trip without travelling too far, Angeles comes to mind. Located in the province of Pampanga, which is dubbed as the Culinary Capital of the Philippines, Angeles is home to many legendary restaurants and world-class chefs. It is also the birthplace of a Filipino favorite: the Sisig! No wonder that the American chef Anthony Bourdain (RIP) visited the city for his show No Reservations. You just can’t leave this place without experiencing its gastronomic wonders.
So I’m listing down the Angeles food experiences you should try:
25 Seeds and Cafe Fleur By Sau Del Rosario
Like what I said, Angeles is home to world-class chefs. There are two Angeleños who has reached celebrity chef status. One of them is Chef Sau Del Rosario.
Chef Sau is an accomplished chef and restaurateur. He was born to a family of chefs spanning four generations, studied in a culinary school, and has travelled to many parts of the world, most notably France, to expand his culinary knowledge and experience. He has published a book in 2015 entitled 20 Years of Love and Cooking, chronicling his culinary journey, and has been featured in many articles and TV shows. This Angelean chef is so famous that he was even included in SPOT.ph’s Top 10 Cutest Chefs in Manila list!
He has two restaurants in Angeles: 25 Seeds and Cafe Fleur. Although I’ve been to 25 Seeds, I haven’t tried their dishes extensively (I was there just for coffee and desserts). So I’ll just share about my Cafe Fleur experience.
Cafe Fleur used to be located in Miranda Street, housed in a quaint, renovated ancestral home with cute (yes, that’s how I describe it) interiors. But they relocated to the Dycaico Ancestral House, where 25 Seeds can be found. I was a bit sad because the house in Miranda Street is, for me, part of the Cafe Fleur experience.
My favorites in Cafe Fleur are the desserts and their Crispy Pork Belly + Truffled Macadamia Kare-Kare (Filipino peanut stew). The macadamia-peanut sauce is rich, creamy, and perfectly sweet. The ratio of fat and meat in the pork belly is 50:50. That’s outrageous! But it adds to the flavor. Of course, you can always remove the fat. Then you get a good crunch from the sitaw (green beans). This dish is simply amazing!
Read more on my Cafe Fleur experience here.
Address: 2/F Dycaico Ancestral House, Santo Rosario St., Brgy. Sto. Rosario, Angeles City, Pampanga | Operating Hours: Daily, 11AM-10PM | 25 Seeds’ Facebook Page | Cafe Fleur’s Facebook Page
Barbecue and Bibingka at Jun-Jun’s Restaurant
Jun-Jun’s originated from the city of San Fernando, the capital of Pampanga. But it’s good to include this in your Angeles food trip because of its amazing barbecue. I remember my first visit there. Their barbecue was just too good that when I ran out of rice, I used sisig to act as my carbs. LOL. (More on sisig later.)
This food chain was established in 1968 by Jose and Anita Barlin. It started out as a small barbecue canteen and has become a successful chain throughout 50 plus years.
Their bestselling Chicken and Pork Barbecue are both amazing. It’s marinated in a slightly sweet sauce (which I like). The chicken barbecue is juicy, smoky, and tender, while the pork is generous.
After an amazing meal, don’t forget to try another of their bestseller: Bibingka. It is a rice cake made with galapong (glutinous rice flour), which is turned into a batter along with other ingredients. Then it’s baked with charcoal below and above, and topped with sliced salted egg, niyog (desiccated coconut), and sometimes cheese. It’s a popular snack during Christmas season. But in Jun-Jun’s, it’s served all year long.
Jun-Jun’s version of bibingka is caramel in color, contrary to the usual yellow. It’s fluffy and rightly sweet. I think the salted egg is mixed inside instead of being topped outside.
Address: Fil-Am Friendship Highway, Brgy. Anunas, Angeles City, Pampanga | Operating Hours: Monday-Thursday, 10:30AM-10:30PM; Friday-Sunday, 10:30AM-11PM | Facebook | Website
Buko Sherbet
If you’re visiting Angeles on a hot day and you happen to drop by Nepo Mart, which is one of Angeles’ shopping centers, grab some Buko (Coconut) Sherbet. It’s a nice way to refresh, especially in the summer heat.
Buko sherbet is available across the city. But it’s best found in Nepo Mart.
Address: Nepo Mart, Nepo Center, Brgy. Sto. Rosario, Angeles City, Pampanga
Downtown Café by Claude Tayag
The other Angelean chef that has reached celebrity status is Chef Claude Tayag. If his name sounds familiar, that’s because he was the one who accompanied the late Anthony Bourdain in his visit to the Pampanga! The American chef went to Angeles City for his show No Reservations to eat goat dishes, sample sisig (more on this later, I promise!), and visit Chef Claude’s Bale Dutung for traditional Filipino dishes.
So in one of my Angeles trips, I went to Bale Dutung...’s sister restaurant. The “Bourdained” Bale Dutung, which is also the residence of Chef Claude and his wife Maryann, is strictly by reservation. I’m guessing that with a feature from Bourdain’s show, it’s hard to get a slot and prices must’ve gone high. Fortunately, one can still sample the Angelean chef’s dishes at affordable prices and without prior reservations at Downtown Café.
Downtown Café is a diner that serves dishes that infuse modern or international influences on Filipino classics. The restaurant also has a nice retro feel, decorated with old memorabilia, including a jukebox machine.
While there are many phenomenal dishes at Downtown Café, my absolute favorite is the But let’s go to the star of the show: the Crispy Aromatic Duckling. It’s a half spring duck covered with Downtown’s 9-spice dry rub then fried to perfection. Man! The duck is so fragrant and the meat is tender and flavorful!
The duck is served with Chinese pancakes, hoisin sauce, mango salsa, and shreds of cucumber. The way to eat it is to assemble a wrap just like what you would do to a Peking duck. This adds to the “duckxperience”!
I’m wishing to eat at Bale Dutung someday! *fingers crossed*
Read more on my Downtown Café experience here.
Address: Unit 1B, The Quad at Nepo, Nepo Mart, Plaridel St., Brgy. Sto Rosario, Angeles City, Pampanga | Operating Hours: Daily, 10AM-10PM | Facebook
Fried Chicken at Angeles Fried Chicken
If Kentucky has KFC, then Angeles has AFC! LOL. The longest running restaurant in the city, Angeles Fried Chicken serves a legit contender to KFC, as it mimics the flavor and texture of the Colonel Sanders’ chicken. The only thing that AFC couldn’t match is the gravy. Sorry AFC; nothing beats KFC’s!
Don’t forget to order another of their bestseller, Fried Liver & Gizzard, which is also delicious.
Address: 1992 Marlim Diamond Subdivision, Brgy. Balibago, Angeles City, Pampanga | Operating Hours: Monday, 9AM-12AM; Tuesday-Sunday, 10AM-10PM | Facebook
Goat Dishes at Taldawa
Taldawa is another term for “marangle”, which means “farm” in the Kapampangan language. The owner wanted a farm-like ambience so that diners can relax as they escape the hustle and bustle of the city. So in Taldawa, patrons eat al fresco style, with roosters and a giant tree around. Mark Wiens describe this food spot as a backyard eatery. (Too bad I can’t find many of my photos so I couldn’t show it to you.)
Taldawa is also a kambingan (goat place) and serves mostly goat dishes. I learned about it through Wiens’ vlog when he joined the Singaporean foodie KF Seetoh and other people on a 15-hour Pampanga food tour organized by the World Street Food Congress.
I arrived there a little after lunch and the staff told us that the dishes we’re already gone. But they were accommodating and checked if they could still give us something. I believe they were cooking another batch. To my relief, they gave us Kalderetang Kambing (goat stewed in tomato sauce and liver spread) and Sinigang na Kambing (goat in sour soup).
Both dishes were delicious. But I like the sinigang better, as it has a thick and slightly sour broth.
Taldawa also serves duck dishes. So next time, I’ll come earlier and try their Duck Adobo.
Address: 433 Sampaguita St., Dona Belen Subdivision, Brgy. Sto. Cristo, Angeles City, Pampanga | Operating Hours: Monday-Saturday, 11AM-2PM | Facebook
Kakanin and Pancit at Susie’s Cuisine
For me, the best merienda (snack) place in Angeles is Susie’s Cuisine. Founded in 1972, this food spot is known for kakanin (sticky rice cake), pancit (noodles), and other Filipino favorites. They’re so successful that they now have multiple branches across Pampanga, its neighboring provinces, and even in Metro Manila.
My go-to here is Pancit Palabok, a noodle dish covered with orange shrimp sauce, then topped with slices of boiled egg and chicharon (deep-fried pork rind) bits. The sauce is goopy and hearty. I love the crispy bits of chicharon.
Of course, we can’t miss out on the rice cakes, as Susie’s Cuisine is called the Best in Pampango Kakanin. Among all their kakanin, the Moche, Rice Cake (yes, that’s the name), and Tibok-Tibok are my favorites. The moche is soft and chewy, filled inside (I suspect its beans) and drowned in gata (coconut cream). The rice cake is perfectly sweet and soft, having a burnt flavor on the top. And the tibok-tibok is just hearty and creamy.
Address: Nepo Mart, 36 Hilda Street, Angeles City, Pampanga | Operating Hours: Daily, 7AM-8PM | Facebook
Kapampangan Food at Everybody’s Café
People say that if you want to try Kapampangan food or the cuisine of Pampanga, you have to head to San Fernando, which is the neighboring city south of Angeles. But you don’t have to drive there because you can try Kapampangan specialties at Everybody’s Café.
This food spot is originally from San Fernando. It was opened after the Second World War by founders Benito and Carmen Santos. They only served two dishes back then: Mami (noodle soup) and Pancit Luglug, a version of pancit palabok. Through the years, they expanded their menu and still retained their bestselling mami and pancit. It’s called Everybody’s Café because Americans and Japanese would dine there. Therefore, it’s for everybody!
Here, you can try Kapampangan classics such as Dinuguan (pig blood stew), Ensaladang Pako (fern salad), and Morcon, which is a Filipino meat roulade stuffed with boiled egg, carrots, pickles, and sausage. If you’re a bit adventurous, you can sample the Adobong Kamaru (sautéed mole crickets!) and Betute (stuffed and fried wild frogs!). Both exotic dishes are delicious!
I’m hoping to visit the San Fernando branch someday and try more Kapampangan dishes!
Address: 05-106 BPI Arcade, Nepo Mart, Brgy. Sto. Rosario, Angeles City, Pampanga | Operating Hours: TBA | Facebook
Tokwa’t Baboy at Mila’s Tokwa’t Baboy
Mila’s Tokwa’t Baboy is an institution in the city. This food spot was started by Milagros (“Mila”) and Reuben Gomez back in 1989. It started out as a sari-sari store (a neighborhood sundry store) that also served cold drinks. Their customers would request some pulutan (finger food) to pair with the drinks. So the couple came up with something and one of them is their signature Tokwa’t Baboy. And the rest is history!
Literally “tofu and pork”, this dish is a mixture of mainly deep fried tofu cubes, sliced pig ears (modern variations use slices of pork), and a soy-vinegar concoction. Mila’s version is outstanding. The tofu is delightfully crispy and puffy, and the pieces of pig ears are soft and fattily good. The sauce doesn’t have the usual sweet taste. Rather, it’s a mix of salty and sour, with the sourness coming from calamansi (Philippine lime) I believe. Aside from red onion, it also has celery, which is an unusual ingredient for a tokwa’t baboy.
Aside from tokwa’t baboy, Mila’s is also known for their version of sisig (more on this in a bit so I ask for your patience!) and some people say that have the best.
Address: San Andres St., Brgy. San Angelo, Angeles City, Pampanga | Operating Hours: Daily (my research shows differing hours per source so I’ll get back to this) | Facebook
Sisig at ?
Finally, you’ll know what a sisig is if you don’t know what it is! LOL.
Born in Angeles, sisig is traditionally a dish made of chopped pig ears/cheeks and chicken liver, mixed with onions and seasoned with calamansi and sili (chili). It started out as a bar food but is now accepted as a viand. It also evolved into different forms. Some have egg and mayonnaise on it while others use chicken and fish instead of pork. Some even fuse it with international cuisine, such as paella and tacos.
So how did sisig come to existence? When the U.S. Air Force was still stationed in Clark Air Base, commissaries would just throw away unused pig heads. Finding it a waste, the locals offered to purchase these unwanted pig parts. They boiled and seasoned it, turning it into a dish that would be the precursor to modern sisig. Talk about Filipino resourcefulness!
But the sisig we now know today will find its roots to Aling Lucing’s. The owner, the late Lucia Cunanan a.k.a. “Sisig Queen”, brought the dish to another level by grilling the boiled pig ears and cheeks, adding pig brains and chicken livers, and serving it in sizzling plates. Fortunately, the restaurant is still open, serving the iconic dish.
I did a sisig crawl to find out the best. Is it Aling Lucing’s? Mila’s? Just check it out here. LOL.
What dish or food spot above have you tried or would like to try? What Angeles food experience should I try next? Comment them below!