Hainanese Chicken Rice Balls at Kedai Kopi Chung Wah

If you’re visiting Kuala Lumpur (KL) and are into heritage cities like me, then head over to Malacca City (spelled as Melaka in Malay), which is just a 2-hour bus ride away. It is a coastal city in the southwestern part of peninsular Malaysia and the capital of the State of Malacca. Because of its rich history, its city center was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 2008.

Malacca has an interesting colonial history. It was first colonized by the Portuguese, followed by the Dutch and the British. You can still see some of the colonizers’ architectural remnants in the city, such as St. Paul’s Church by the Portuguese and the Red Square by Dutch, which includes the iconic red-painted Christ Church and Stadhuys (City Hall). During World War II, it fell into the hands of the Japanese, who ruled for 3 years.

The ethnic groups in the city mainly compose of Chinese, Indians, Malays, and Peranakans (mixed ethnicities, usually of Chinese and Malay descent). This diversity is clearly reflected in the Malaccan food scene. Except for the Malay, my friends and I were able to sample food from every cuisine. If you’re planning a food trip in the city, here are the dishes (and drinks) that we tried and recommend:

Asam Pedas at Restoran Kota Laksamana 1

Asam Pedas is a sour (asam) and spicy (pedas) fish stew popular in Indonesia and Malaysia. Restoran Kota Laksamana 1 is best known for this dish. The broth is perfectly sour and spicy. We got the snapper with it, which is very tender. The cabbage and okra gives a nice crunch. Overall, the dish was amazing and nice with white rice.

This was our first meal in Malacca and what a way to start our Malacca Food Trip!

Address: Jalan Laksamana 5, Taman Kota Laksamana, Melaka, Malaysia| Operating Hours: Wednesday-Monday, 6PM-4AM

Chendol and Nyonya Chang at East & West Rendezvous

Chendol is my favorite dessert in the Malay Peninsula. I had to wait for 5 days into my Malaysia trip before I can try this. But what exactly is this dessert? It’s a shaved ice dessert topped with pandan-flavored, worm-shaped noodles/jellies and sweet red beans. Then santan (coconut milk) and gula melaka (palm sugar) syrup is poured into it. Some variants even include a durian.

It is said that Aunty Koh makes the best chendol in Malacca. But it was a far drive from the heritage zone so we opted for another shop: East and West Rendezvous. They make a good version, which is refreshing in the incredibly humid Malacca weather. But I still prefer the one I tried in Singapore.

East and West Rendezvous is also famous for their Nyonya Chang, which is a localized version of the zongzi, which is Chinese glutinous rice dumpling with filling (minced pork in this case). Their version is generous with the pork filling. It obviously has Malay influences because of the blue coloring on the top side of the dumpling. This is because of butterfly pea flower, which is a natural food coloring commonly used in Malay, Peranakan, and even Thai cuisines.

Address: 52 Lorong Hang Jebat, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Thursday-Tuesday, 9:30AM-5:30PM

Chicken Tandoori and Naan at Pak Putra Restaurant

I love Indian food! I even did an Indian food crawl in Singapore, which I will feature next month. I’m glad that there is restaurant that specializes in Chicken Tandoori and Naan in Malacca. So on our last night, we went to Pak Putra Restaurant.

For the uninitiated, chicken tandoori is a dish where the chicken is marinated in yoghurt and spices then cooked in a tandoor, a clay oven shaped like a cylinder. It’s perfectly partnered with naan, which is flatbread also cooked in a tandoor.

We got chicken tandoori (of course!) and different kinds of naan (butter, cheese, garlic, and Kashmiri, which has almonds and raisins). The chicken is juicy, tender, and flavorful, while the naan is doughy. We also got a palak paneer, which is pureed spinach that’s a good dip for both the chicken and naan.

Naan being prepared (left) and chicken tandoori (right) — *Naan* being prepared (left) and chicken *tandoori* (right)

Everything we had was amazing! And I declare Pak Putra as my favorite restaurant in Malacca!

Address: 56 & 58, Jalan 4, Taman Kota Laksamana, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Tuesday-Sunday, 5:30PM-1AM

Coconut Shake at Klebang Original Coconut Shake

If you want to beat the afternoon heat, head out to the Klebang area and have a Coconut Shake. It’s like a milkshake because vanilla ice cream is used.

Klebang Original Coconut Shake (Coconut Shake Special: RM2.85)

Just a word of warning: Their glasses aren’t too clean. So if you’re particular with hygiene, this may not be the place for you.

Address: Lot 130, Solok Kampung Bahagia, Klebang Besar, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Saturday-Thursday, 11AM-6:30PM; Friday: 2-6:30PM | Facebook: Klebang Original Coconut Shake

Coffee at Calanthe Art Café

This café serves coffee from each of the 13 Malaysian states. Of course, I got the Malaccan one, which composes of 70% beans and 30% sugar, salt, and margarine.

Calanthe Art Café (Teh Tarik Cheesecake and Coffee: RM14.90) — Calanthe Art Café (*Teh Tarik* Cheesecake and Coffee: RM14.90)

It’s cheaper if you get a slice of cake because the coffee comes free. So I got a Teh Tarik Cheesecake. It tastes like pulled milk tea. However, it’s more gelatinous than creamy. I like my cheesecake rich.

Address: 11 Jalan Hang Kasturi, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Sunday-Wednesday, 9AM-11PM; Friday & Saturday, 9AM-12AM | Facebook: Calanthe Art Cafe

Hainanese Chicken Rice Balls at Kedai Kopi Chung Wah

At Kedai Kopi Chung Wah, they serve your Hainanese Chicken Rice with a twist. Instead of the typical bed of flavorful rice, the rice is formed into bouncy balls.

Chung Wah’s chicken is tender and has a simple taste. We also got boiled chicken innards (liver mostly), which added some creaminess to the meal. It’s the simplicity of the dishes that make the entire meal special.

Address: 18 Jalan Hang Jebat, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Monday-Friday, 9AM-3PM; Saturday & Sunday, 9AM-4PM

Mille Crepe at Nadeje

Nadeje specializes in Mille Crepes. A reinvention of the French classic, this dessert is made up of layers of thin crepes, creamed in between, and topped with various ingredients. Nadeje has alcoholic and non-alcoholic varieties. I got their original mille crepe, which is nicely sweet and creamy. The layers of crepe give an amazing, even therapeutic, mouth feel.

Nadeje (Original Mille Crepe: RM13/slice)

Nadeje is a chain that’s now expanding outside of Malacca. They already have branches in the greater KL area.

Mahkota Parade Branch Address: G-23B, EG 4, & EG 5 G/F Mahkota Parade, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Daily, 11AM-10PM | Facebook: Nadeje Cake Shop | Website

Nyonya Asam Laksa at Jonker 88

Laksa is a popular noodle dish in the Malay Peninsula. Each region has its own take of the dish. You’re probably familiar with the coconut-based variety referred to as the curry laksa. But another popular variety is the asam (sour) laksa, which has a fish and tamarind base. We got to taste it at Jonker 88, which is one of the most visited spots by tourists.

The broth of Jonker 88’s Nyonya Asam Laksa is a mix of sour, sweet, and stay-in-your-mouth spicy. The dish is a world of textures, with softness from the glass noodles, chewiness from the beancurd skin, and crunch from the cucumber strips.

I’m still getting used to the taste of asam laksa. I hope to taste it in Penang someday, as the region is known for the dish.

Address: 88 Jalan Hang Jebat, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 9:30AM-5:30PM; Friday & Saturday, 9:30AM-8:30PM | Facebook: Jonker88

Nyonya Kuih at Baba Charlie Nyonya Cake

Kuih is the Malaysian counterpart of the Filipino kakanin (glutinous rice cakes). Aside from the glutinous rice, both generally has coconut milk and/or shavings. But a difference of the kuih is that it’s usually bite-size, making it addictive, and uses palm sugar and pandan.

If you love glutinous rice cakes like I do, then drive a bit outside of the heritage zone and head to Baba Charlie Nyonya Cake. You’ll be overwhelmed with the varieties of kuih there! It’s a good thing they have a set ready to go. They must’ve figured out that patrons have a hard time choosing among the assortment.

Address: Jalan Tengkera Lorong Pantai 2C, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Friday-Wednesday, 10AM-3PM | Facebook: Baba Charlie Nyonya Cake

By the way, here’s a helpful guide to kuih (and kakanin).

Pandan Pancakes at The Daily Fix Café

Pandan is a common ingredient in Malaysian cuisine. It’s even used in popular dishes such as Nasi Lemak. The Daily Fix, a brunch spot, used pandan to flavor one of their pancake varieties. The Local Pandan Pancake come in five smaller-than-usual pieces, served with a coconut-gula melaka topping on the side. The pancakes are fluffy and the pandan flavor isn’t overpowering. The topping add a nice sweetness.

While you’re at the café, enjoy the retro interior that brings nostalgia to its customers.

Address: 55 Jalan Hang Jebat (Jonker St.), Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Monday-Friday, 9AM-11:30PM; Saturday & Sunday, 8:30AM-11:30PM | Facebook: The Daily Fix Cafe

Peranakan Food at Nancy’s Kitchen

As I mentioned a while ago, Peranakans are of a mixed ethnicity. They have a Chinese/Indian and Malay descent. So just imagine the fusion of the cuisines. One of the best restaurants for Peranakan food is Nancy’s Kitchen.

We got several dishes:

Ayam Buah Keluak (Chicken with Black Nut): This is a Peranakan classic with a unique Indonesian fruit—the black nut. The fruit has a paste that requires scooping. I’m not sure how to describe the taste of the paste, but it certainly has a interesting (starchy?) mouth-feel.

Ayam Buah Keluak (left) and Ikan Gerang Assam (right)

Ikan Gerang Assam (Fish in Tamarind Sauce): This reminds me of asam pedas which I tried earlier, as it has a nice sour and spicy broth. It also has okra that adds some crunch. Although the restaurant’s menu warns that it is not to be mistaken for the local asam pedas.

Nasi Goreng Petai Cili Garam (Fried Rice Chili with Bitter Bean): This is a typical fried rice upgraded with another unique ingredient—bitter beans or stink beans. The stink beans have a nice funk to it. Don’t worry; it doesn’t smell as strong as durian.
Ngioh Hiang: Minced pork flavored with Chinese five-spice powder and wrapped in bean curd skin. It’s similar to the Filipino-Chinese pork kikiam.
Rendang Daging (Beef Rendang): Beef stewed in coconut milk and dry spices. Truly a Malay classic!

I really enjoyed our visit to Nancy’s Kitchen. As I write this, I’m reminiscing the experience, making me crave for Peranakan food. Maybe I should do a Peranakan Food Crawl next time!

Address: 13, 13-1, 13-2 Jalan KL 3/8, Taman Kota Laksamana, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Sunday-Thursday, 11AM-5PM; Friday, Saturday, & Public Holiday: 11AM-9PM | Facebook: Nancy’s Kitchen | Website

By the way, you can learn more about the Peranakan culture at the Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum, which is a popular museum in Malacca.

Baba & Nyonya Heritage Museum (unfortunately, photography isn’t allowed inside the museum)

Satay Celup at Restoran Capitol Satay

Satay Celup is a unique dining experience that is truly Malaccan. The pioneer of this Restoran Capitol Satay which started back in 1950s. It’s said that there’s always a long queue here. But we went on a weeknight so we got seated right away.

I say unique because there is a process. It goes like this: First, we chose our food, which are stored in refrigerators. The selection is wide, ranging from raw to semi-cooked, protein to vegetables. The prices depend on the color of the stick or of the plates.

After we’ve chosen, we brought them to our table, where there is a boiling pot of satay (peanut) sauce. Then we dipped (thus, celup) the skewers, waited for 2 minutes, and ate.

It was an interesting experience. It’s not my favorite; I guess I’m just too used to soup-based hotpots. But no Malacca Food Trip would be complete without satay celup.

Address: 41 Lorong Bukit Cina, Bandar Hilir, Melaka, Malaysia | Operating Hours: Tuesday-Saturday, 4PM-1AM; Sunday, 5PM-12AM

What Malaccan food spot should I visit next? Among all the dishes that I tried, which ones do you like to taste the most? Comment them below!

PS I just finished a series on my Kuala Lumpur (KL) Food Trip. Feel free to check them out: The Amazing Local Food of Kuala Lumpur | The Search for the Best Nasi Lemak | The Street Food of Jalan Alor Night Market | Starting the Day Right with Breakfast

Malacca Food Trip: Eating My Way in Malaysia's Historic City